Terroir, tradition and the “collective thirst” for originality. How Langhe and Monferrato captivate the Nordic soul: interview with Thomas Ilkjær and Jonathan Gouveia MS
The 17th edition of Barolo & Friends is approaching with rapid steps. On April 22nd, the iconic Opera House in Copenhagen will once again form the center for Piedmontese wine excellence. To celebrate this milestone, we explore the bond that is developing between the region and the Danish market, through the eyes of two visionary experts who will lead this edition’s educational sessions: Thomas Ilkjær and Jonathan Gouveia MS.
Thomas Ilkjær is a cornerstone of this event and has collaborated since the very first editions. As director of the Scandinavian Wine Academy and author of the most influential textbook on Italian wine in the Nordics, he also serves as leader of the Piedmont Blind Tasting Competition, which is now running in its second year. At this edition, he will lead an in-depth Masterclass on Nizza DOCG, an appellation that despite its young age “already has established an image of Barbera wines with depth, complexity and long longevity.” For the first time on the team is Jonathan Gouveia MS, one of the few Master Sommeliers in the region. With deep roots in the Danish wine industry, Gouveia will lead a Masterclass with the title “By the Glass”, where he presents ten characterful and versatile wines that give great value for the money. We have asked them a few questions to get a current perspective on the Danish market in a time of great changes.
According to Jonathan Gouveia, the Danish wine scene has a unique position because the lack of a significant local wine history has created “a demography of wine drinkers who are unusually open-minded.” It is precisely this openness that lets Piedmont shine through its greatest assets: an unsurpassed heritage of biodiversity and an authentic connection to the earth. Piedmont’s strength today lies in the ability to offer a “total experience” where history, sustainability and originality meet the modern demand for transparency. Thomas Ilkjær remarks that “the coverage has gone from a more or less tight focus on Barolo and Barbaresco to a broader narrative that comprises more grape varieties and appellations.” This shift highlights the region’s incredible versatility, where as the prices of the historical crus rise, space has emerged for young producers to explore less known vineyards. Gouveia points to the Serradenari hill in La Morra as a school example of this change: once it was considered to be too cold, but now it is a location with “fantastic potential” due to climate change, which proves that Piedmont’s terroir is a living map of quality in constant development.
As for the taste development, the high acid and tannin levels in Nebbiolo may have been a hindrance previously, but Ilkjær remarks that the Danes have undergone a “long-term adaptation”, primarily because they have begun to drink these wines in a gastronomic context. The modern palate exhibits however at the same time a “collective thirst for lighter and more refreshing wines.” It is here, Piedmont’s hidden gems – its “originality” – come into play. As Gouveia explains, varieties like Pelaverga, Freisa and agile styles of Dolcetto become ideal partners for the clean, precise flavors in the Nordic kitchen. These wines offer the “drinkability” that today’s market craves, without sacrificing the region’s characteristic complexity. For producers who wish to step into or expand on the market, the key is to utilize these native grape varieties, which represent a unique alternative to the globalized wine market.
Success in Copenhagen requires also a nuanced understanding of the local professional culture. Gouveia emphasizes that Danish behavior builds on humility and the thought of not thinking one is better than others: “Flashy sales teams and expensive suits belong in the ‘don’t’ category.” The winning approach is characterized by authenticity and information, supported by total transparency. The ultimate strength of Piedmontese wine in Denmark is its storytelling power: the ability to tell a story of centuries-old traditions, which at the same time are at the forefront of the sustainability movement. As Ilkjær concludes, the coming years’ challenges will involve “the fight against climate change and the effort to retain consumers’ attention on ‘new’ appellations like Alta Langa and Colli Tortonesi.” On April 22nd in the Opera House, these considerations will be brought to life and mark another chapter in the extraordinary cultural exchange between Piedmont and Denmark.
