Read the interview by Wine Meridian’s Emanuele Fiorio with Hugo Courtois, a prominent figure on the French wine scene and host of the in-depth masterclasses at the Barolo&Etna event in Paris, scheduled for November 2.
The sommelier and co-founder of Triple Vins SAS, and masterclass speaker at the Barolo&Etna event in Paris, explains how to showcase both regions in France, and why, for Barolo producers, the real challenge abroad lies in storytelling and choosing the right partners.
“Before selling a bottle, you need to know who will tell its story.” This is the cornerstone insight to emerge from our conversation with Hugo Courtois on the eve of the second edition of Barolo&Etna in Paris, scheduled for Monday, November 2, 2026, at L’Usine Deguerry.
Tasked with leading French professionals through two technical masterclasses dedicated to Barolo DOCG and Etna DOC, Courtois offers an insider’s look into how French buyers, sommeliers, and importers perceive fine Italian wine today. The Paris event is far more than a prestigious international showcase; it serves as a strategic testing ground. Engaging with a market deeply rooted in the traditions and standards of France’s great terroirs requires clear vision, sound methodology, and well-defined rules of engagement.
From the synergies between two denominations that should never compete, but rather elevate each other, to the necessity of looking beyond the label to convey the nuances of vineyards, contrade, and soils, through to the critical topics of price positioning and restaurant margins in Paris: here is a sharp analysis and practical takeaways from someone actively navigating the French market on the ground every day.
Barolo and Etna come from two very different terroirs, but they share a strong territorial identity. Do you think this geographical and stylistic distance could be a strength in presenting them to the French public, rather than a factor of competition?
No, I don’t see competition, but rather complementarity. Barolo and Etna are two very different appellations, each with an extremely distinctive identity, and this is precisely what makes them interesting to present side by side. Barolo is a benchmark in Italy, one of the first appellations to obtain DOCG recognition and well-established on the French market. It assumes its role of responsibility by standing alongside Etna, a designation still in its infancy. Above all, they both share the same quest for authenticity—that of terroir-driven wines—and the same desire to establish themselves in the Italian wine scene.
The French market is well acquainted with the great national reds, from Burgundy to Bordeaux to the Rhône. What is the key today for a Barolo to enter the conversation of great French wines without simply trying to resemble them?
In my opinion, Barolo is already considered among the world’s greatest wines. French regions operate very differently: Bordeaux classifies its châteaux, Burgundy its climats (terroirs). There is therefore no one-size-fits-all system , as each stems from the history and tradition of its own region or appellation.
Of course, we can draw inspiration, and it’s important to observe what’s happening around us. But it’s equally important to look through the prism of history and tradition and ask ourselves, knowing these models, how to proceed along our own path.
And what about Etna? In recent years, volcanic wine has attracted growing international attention, but how well-known is Etna wine among French sommeliers, restaurateurs, and enthusiasts? Where do you see the greatest room for growth?
Etna is a denomination whose visibility in France is quite recent: we’re just starting to see it on wine lists. The market seems to be showing interest in Etna wines and their history. It’s a good start, but it’s only the beginning. Now that this interest exists, it must be developed. This requires regular production, which must be guaranteed every year, and communication campaigns. We also need ambassadors who know this history thoroughly and can explain why Etna is such a unique terroir. This is also because there isn’t just one Etna wine; there are many.
From your perspective, what does a French wine importer or merchant look for today when evaluating a high-end Italian wine? Is it the reputation of the appellation, the name of the producer, the uniqueness of the terroir, the price, or the wine’s ability to tell something new that matters most?
Wine, first and foremost, evokes emotions, and a great wine must deliver on its promise in the glass. Furthermore, it must address more complex market logic. The market is driven by very different players, resulting in diverse purchasing dynamics that respond to equally diverse needs (location, clientele, restaurant offerings, etc.).
Each actor evaluates a wine through his own perspective.
For a Barolo that’s still little-known to the end consumer, what do you think is the most effective approach: starting with the denomination and the crus, the Nebbiolo grape variety, the producer, or directly from the tasting experience?
I don’t think there’s a better way to introduce a consumer to Barolo, and this is precisely the fundamental role of an ambassador. They will provide insights and make the approach to wine an enjoyable experience for the consumer. Whether it’s through the lens of the grape variety, the crus, or the producer’s style, the conversation can vary and must also adapt to the person it’s addressed to. It’s crucial that these elements are reflected in the tasting.
For Etna, the situation seems different: the volcano is a powerful narrative element, but it sometimes risks becoming a communication shortcut. How important is it, in your opinion, to go beyond the volcano’s narrative and truly understand the grape varieties, altitudes, districts, and territorial differences?
If Etna wants to establish itself as a key region in Italy, it will truly have to transcend the simple story of the volcano. The volcano will always remain in the background: it is the protagonist of this region. I believe the narrative must revolve around the volcano’s impact on the area. What makes this region so unique? The altitude, the districts, the slopes, the grape varieties: it is the combination of these elements that create such complexity and diversity in wines, and it is precisely this that makes Etna worthy of interest.
In your selection work for Triple Vins SAS, how difficult is it to find Italian wines that combine recognizability, depth, and personality at a price point the French market still considers acceptable? And where is the true price threshold today, beyond which it becomes much more difficult to win over new consumers?
Italy is rich in wines, grape varieties, and appellations: it’s one of the richest countries in this regard. Every region produces wine, so you don’t have to look far to find originality, depth, and character.
Price remains a factor to consider when penetrating a market , but it must be explained and justified. Why does a Barolo cost more than one hundred euros on a wine list today? Because it’s released more than three years after production, and this comes at a cost. To explain this, ambassadors are needed. Nor should it limit itself exclusively to the high-end segment: a denomination can target the premium segment, but it must always offer a point of entry to make itself understood.
Regarding the price limit, there’s no single truth: but with a wholesale price between €25 and €30 excluding VAT at a minimum, the wine is served in restaurants for at least €100, and this positioning appeals exclusively to a minority of consumers. Either you decide to target this minority, or you create an access point so that as many people as possible can at least get an idea. This is the case with Langhe wines, which remain a gateway to Barolo wines; however, you need ambassadors who can explain this to consumers.
Looking specifically at Parisian restaurants, what characteristics must a great Italian wine possess today to truly be included on a major wine list? Is excellence in the glass enough, or are distribution continuity, availability of vintages, and a narrative easily conveyed to the customer also essential?
The product itself must deliver on the promise it makes in the glass, because this is the fundamental requirement, but it’s not enough. Every player in the supply chain has a role to play. The producer must be able to offer consistency every year, a coherent distribution policy with reliable deliveries, stable prices, and, ideally, older vintages to build a robust wine list.
The distributor, for their part, conveys the product’s story, provides context and transparency to professionals, acts as a link between them and the estate, and is also responsible for explaining the market to them. It is then up to the professional, based on all these elements, to promote the product to the final consumer.
The Barolo&Etna event was born from a collaboration between regions and will expand to London in 2026. In your opinion, in an increasingly competitive international market, how important is the ability of Italian regions to present themselves together, share knowledge, and develop joint initiatives instead of going their own way?
Strength lies in numbers. Sharing resources and knowledge creates a stronger voice, with a greater impact. But the message must remain clear and enhance both identities, rather than diluting them.
If you had to point out a concrete direction for Barolo and Etna producers who want to grow in France in the coming years, what question should they ask themselves before even thinking about how to sell a bottle?
Before selling a bottle, you need to know who will tell its story. What is my story? Who are my ambassadors?
Joining forces in Paris: the power of a shared vision
Hugo Courtois’s perspective charts a clear path for producers from our region: presenting wines in Paris does not mean copying French models. It means engaging as equals by leveraging centuries of heritage, uncompromising authenticity, and commercial transparency. For a Barolo winery, establishing a presence in the French capital demands direct involvement, consistency, and the ability to forge enduring partnerships with qualified sommeliers and importers.
Meeting the challenge outlined by Hugo Courtois comes down to one core principle: working together rather than standing alone. The Barolo&Etna format was created to give participating wineries a high-impact platform in Paris, opening doors to more than 200 carefully selected wine professionals, from fine-dining restaurants to specialized distributors, where the prestige of the appellation amplifies the individual identity of each producer.
Full program details are available via the following link:
