Cristina Mercuri MW maps out a development strategy: strengths and weaknesses, international perception, denominations to be re-evaluated, targeted communication, and strategic priorities for the coming years.
Article by Emanuele Fiorio – Wine Meridian for I Vini del Piemonte
In this interview, Cristina Mercuri—Master of Wine, founder of the Mercuri Wine Club, and an authoritative voice on Italian fine wine in international markets—sketches a portrait of the Piedmontese wine scene that is both a lucid diagnosis and a blueprint for the future. Not a celebration, not a list of accolades, but a reasoning for those who truly want to understand where Piedmont is strong, where it is vulnerable, and what it risks losing if it does not learn to speak to the world more coherently.
What emerges is a genuine territory in motion. The map of Piedmontese wine has expanded; the international market has learned to read MGAs (Additional Geographical Mentions), exposures, and altitudes with a precision unthinkable ten years ago, and denominations such as Alto Piemonte, Derthona Timorasso, and Alta Langa have ceased to be curiosities for niche operators. Yet, Mercuri MW emphasizes, this hard-won complexity risks remaining the preserve of specialists if it is not translated into an accessible, concrete narrative capable of speaking to a sommelier in Singapore, a Canadian buyer, or a Brazilian consumer discovering fine wine for the first time.
The common thread of every answer is this: Piedmont possesses value, quality, and substance, but it must learn to choose the right register for each interlocutor. And it must do so together, with a common direction, real data, and a long-term vision. It is not a criticism. It is a high expectation, addressed to a region that Mercuri MW clearly considers capable of great achievements.
How has the international perception of Piedmontese wines changed in your eyes over the last ten years, and which aspects of this evolution have surprised you the most?
In the last ten years, the international perception of Piedmont has become much more articulated. For a long time, the region was identified almost exclusively with Barolo and Barbaresco, read through the categories of austerity, longevity, and prestige. Today, professionals and evolved enthusiasts know a much more precise geography: municipalities, additional geographical mentions, exposures, altitudes, differences between areas, and individual producers’ interpretations.
Attention to a more defined, fresh, and transparent style has also grown. The international market is looking for wines capable of expressing the territory with precision, through measured extractions, better-integrated wood, and greater readability of fruit and structure. Piedmont has been able to respond well to this evolution while preserving its identity.
Parallel to this, denominations and styles once left on the fringes of international discourse have gained space: Derthona Timorasso, Alta Langa, Gavi, Roero, and the wines of Alto Piemonte. Economic data confirms the solidity of this positioning: in 2025, Piedmont exported approximately 1.15 billion euros worth of wine, accounting for 14.6% of Italian wine exports. The region expresses lower volumes than other great territories, but a particularly high average value per bottle.
The aspect that struck me most is the speed with which the international trade has embraced Piedmontese geographical complexity. The broader public is proceeding more gradually. The next challenge will be to transform this specialized knowledge into a narrative that is also accessible to the consumer, while preserving depth and precision.
What do you believe are the real strengths today that distinguish Piedmontese wine in foreign markets compared to other great Italian denominations?
The first strength is the combination of global reputation and depth of offering. Barolo and Barbaresco fully belong to the world of international fine wine: they possess recognizability, aging potential, strong geographical identity, and a system of territorial mentions that allows for a very detailed narrative of origin. This credibility creates reputational capital that supports the entire region.
The second element is variety. Piedmont can offer great long-aging reds, everyday and gastronomic wines, structured whites, aromatics, Classic Method sparkling wines, and sweet wines. This plurality allows for the construction of commercial portfolios suitable for different occasions, markets, and price points.
Furthermore, there is a very strong coherence between wine, landscape, cuisine, and hospitality. The UNESCO recognition of the vineyard landscapes of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato has further strengthened this dimension.
Piedmontese wine is perceived as part of a complete cultural system, associated with gastronomy, craftsmanship, quality of life, and high-profile tourism.
Finally, Piedmont retains a strong presence of family-run businesses and relatively limited production. This element fuels authenticity and recognizability, provided it is accompanied by managerial skills, commercial continuity, and communication capacity. Craft value becomes truly competitive when it meets a professional strategy.
Beyond the historical fascination of Barolo and Barbaresco, is there an area, a denomination, or a Piedmontese grape variety that you believe deserves much more attention than it currently receives?
I would point to Alto Piemonte. Denominations such as Gattinara, Ghemme, Boca, Lessona, and Bramaterra possess history, geological identity, and an extraordinary expressive capacity. Here, Nebbiolo takes on a different profile compared to the Langhe: often leaner, floral, saline, and crossed by a very evident acidic tension.
The variety of soils—volcanic, porphyritic, morainic, sandy—produces wines with distinct characters and strong evolution potential. Climatic conditions and altitudes also offer particularly interesting elements in a phase of global warming. The structural freshness and natural elegance of these wines dialogue well with the evolution of international taste.
Alto Piemonte also possesses a prestigious production history, preceding the progressive contraction of vineyards that occurred during the industrialization of the twentieth century. Its contemporary rebirth therefore represents the recovery of a great historical territory.
The challenge concerns fragmentation, limited volumes, and the need for a stronger collective narrative. This very dimension can become an advantage: rare, territorial, long-lived wines capable of offering a different reading of Nebbiolo.
Looking at the map of international markets, which geographical areas seem most promising for Piedmontese wines today, and for what reasons?
I would look first at Northern Europe and the Benelux. Countries such as Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Belgium, and the Netherlands possess prepared consumers, a strong culture of education, and a growing interest in authenticity, sustainability, and origin. They are markets suited to Piedmontese complexity because they are receptive to territorial storytelling and recognize the value of artisanal production.
Canada remains very interesting due to the presence of evolved consumers, the reputation of Italian wine, and the willingness to invest in premium categories. The provincial monopoly system requires preparation, continuity, and a specific strategy, but it can offer great stability when positioning is built correctly.
Alongside these mature markets, I see significant potential in some emerging countries, or ones still in the construction phase for Piedmontese wine, such as India, Brazil, Vietnam, and parts of East Asia. In these contexts, it is often the great classics that succeed first. Barolo and Barbaresco possess recognizable names, international prestige, and a narrative immediately associated with Italian fine wine. For importers, restaurateurs, and consumers who are starting to explore high-end wine, an iconic denomination reduces perceived risk and offers a clear reference.
The great classics can therefore act as reputational icebreakers. They create interest in Piedmont and build trust; subsequently, they allow for expanding the narrative toward Barbera, Roero, Gavi, Alta Langa, Derthona Timorasso, Alto Piemonte, and other regional expressions. This dynamic is particularly important in young markets, where wine knowledge initially proceeds through a few authoritative names and then develops toward greater segmentation.
India, while starting from still-limited dimensions, is showing very rapid growth in imports and increasing demand in premium segments, especially in large urban centers.
Brazil also represents an interesting perspective for quality Italian wine, supported by gastronomic culture, the presence of a community of enthusiasts, and the progressive premiumization of consumption.
In Asia, South Korea, Taiwan, Singapore, and Vietnam present different levels of maturity, but share a growing focus on education, qualified dining, and wines with strong territorial identity.
Singapore also plays a regional hub function: the market’s value must also be measured through its ability to influence distribution, hospitality, and the perception of wine in Southeast Asia.
The choice of markets must, however, start from the compatibility between product, price, channel, and local culture. In emerging countries, a gradual strategy is needed: start with labels capable of generating authority, invest in trade education, and use the prestige of the great classics to progressively introduce the entire richness of Piedmont.
Population size, on its own, says little. A promising market is one where there is qualified distribution, consumers with spending power, dynamic dining, and operators willing to build the category over time.
Are there instead historically strong markets for Piedmont that risk slowing down or changing their profile in the coming years? How should producers prepare?
The United States remains central but is undergoing significant transformation. Economic pressure, uncertainty over tariffs, distribution consolidation, reduced frequency of consumption, and difficulties in the red wine category require a more selective approach. The American market retains a great capacity to valorize Barolo and Barbaresco, but requires investment, local presence, and very precise knowledge of individual states and distribution channels.
Some mature European markets, such as Germany and the United Kingdom, are also becoming more price-sensitive and more fragmented in consumption occasions. China has already shown how quickly a market considered strategic can downsize.
Producers should work on geographical diversification, financial solidity, and portfolio architecture. Entrusting an excessive share of turnover to a single country, a single importer, or a single denomination increases risk exposure.
A continuous presence in markets is needed, accompanied by trade training, localized content, and direct relationships with buyers, restaurateurs, and opinion leaders.
It also becomes important to better articulate the offering. Icons build reputation; other wines can generate frequency, accessibility, and entry into the brand. A well-designed portfolio allows for dialogue with the market without weakening the premium positioning.
In your daily work with international consumers and operators, what are the most frequent misunderstandings about Piedmontese wine that should be explored and clarified?
The first misunderstanding consists of identifying Piedmont exclusively with Barolo and Barbaresco. This association confirms the strength of the two denominations but reduces the perception of the region. Piedmont produces whites, sparkling wines, aromatic wines, immediate reds, and long-aging wines, with a much wider stylistic variety.
The second concerns Nebbiolo, often considered necessarily harsh, austere, and difficult to drink when young. Today, there are very different interpretations, and the tannic structure can be expressed with elegance, precision, and accessibility. Even the dualism between “traditionalists” and “modernists” describes contemporary reality less and less: many producers combine historical knowledge, technology, and current sensitivity.
Barbera is sometimes relegated to the role of a simple wine, whereas it can reach great depth and longevity. Asti is associated only with sweetness and volume production, neglecting aromatic quality, territorial identity, and new interpretations. Gavi is often perceived as a homogeneous category, whereas it presents differences in soil, altitude, and style.
The system of denominations and geographical mentions can also appear complex. Communication should start from the sensory experience: what style the wine has, what structure it possesses, how it evolves, what food it pairs with, and on what occasion it can be drunk. Regulation gains meaning when it helps to understand what is in the glass.
Italian wine communication is often described as “dated,” distant from a general audience, or too self-celebratory. Do you believe it is necessary to change aspects of how Piedmont tells the world about its wines?
Yes, I see significant room for evolution. Piedmont possesses extraordinary content, but communication often starts from what the territory wants to say rather than what the interlocutor needs to understand.
History, soils, vineyards, and traditions have great value. Their effectiveness grows when they are translated into concrete information: wine style, sensory identity, aging potential, positioning, consumption occasion, and value for the buyer. A list of crus, types of marl, or family generations may fascinate the specialist; for other audiences, a clearer entry point is needed.
Each interlocutor requires a specific language. An importer looks for portfolio coherence, margins, and continuity. A sommelier wants to understand style, service, and pairing. A consumer looks for trust, relevance, and guidance. International communication therefore requires listening, cultural adaptation, and a clear hierarchy of messages.
Digital media adds a further responsibility: awareness and equity are built through consistency and duration. Isolated campaigns and peaks of visibility produce limited effects. Piedmont has the opportunity to tell its story as a contemporary, dynamic, and plural region, using language that is accessible, precise, and backed by facts.
The “I Vini del Piemonte” promotion consortium is currently led by two women, in the presidency and management. What does this type of female leadership mean to you for such an identity-driven and traditional territory as Piedmont, and what message can it convey to the outside world?
The presidency of Sara Moscone and the management of Giulia Novajra have concrete and symbolic value. In a territory strongly linked to family continuity and tradition, seeing two women at the helm of a strategic international promotion tool expands the imagery of possible leadership.
I prefer to avoid the idea that there is a naturally female style of leadership. Leadership, vision, and competence belong to individuals. The profound meaning lies in normalization: a woman can lead strategies, budgets, international relations, and decision-making processes without her presence being perceived as exceptional.
This leadership also conveys a message of generational renewal. Piedmont demonstrates that it can preserve its identity through contemporary forms of governance, attentive to the network, cooperation between territories, and the evolution of markets.
Externally, the signal is very strong: a historic region can also be dynamic in its leadership. Tradition and organizational innovation can proceed together, reinforcing each other.
Thinking of the many female producers and professionals working in the sector today, is there advice, a personal experience, or a reflection you would like to share with them?
My main advice is to build substance before visibility. In wine, credibility is slow capital: it is born from study, tasting, experience, the ability to formulate an independent judgment, and the continuity of work.
I would invite professionals to seek roles with real responsibility. Presence on panels, at events, and in communication has value; access to budgets, decisions, strategy, and governance determines structural change. Visibility and operational power must grow together.
It is equally important to choose mentors, collaborators, and professional environments well. Quality networks accelerate growth, offer comparison, and protect against isolation. Even mutual support between women takes on value when it produces concrete opportunities: training, assignments, references, and access to new spaces.
In my journey, opportunities have arrived through competence, work, and perseverance. I have also encountered prejudices and discriminatory situations, and I have learned to respond with firmness, maintaining quality and precision. Occupying a space with naturalness is already a form of cultural change.
If you could give one piece of advice to the Piedmontese wine system as a whole regarding a priority on which to focus synergies and joint efforts over the next five years, what would it be and why?
The priority should be the construction of a permanent regional direction dedicated to market intelligence, international positioning, and the “Piedmont” brand architecture. The region has very strong denominations, different territories, and a high density of small and medium-sized enterprises. This wealth generates value, but can also produce fragmentation. A common platform should collect and interpret market data, share information between producers and consortia, identify geographical priorities, and coordinate promotion, training, and wine tourism.
Piedmont needs a unified narrative capable of enhancing differences. Barolo and Barbaresco can remain the great icons; Alto Piemonte, Roero, Monferrato, Gavi, Derthona, Alta Langa, Asti, and the other denominations must find a clear place within a true regional portfolio architecture. Strategic unity strengthens individual identities when it offers the market an understandable map.
This direction should possess managerial skills, updated data, and a long-term vision. International promotion produces results when it becomes continuous presence, relationship building, and market knowledge.
In the next five years, the ability to cooperate will be one of Piedmont’s main competitive advantages.
